I have always wanted to go to Nepal – ever since I stepped foot in the Canadian Rockies, I knew I loved the mountains. What better place to be in other than the mecca of all mountains? Come explore Nepal with us, and everything else it has to offer from the bustling ancient streets of Kathmandu to the quiet mountain tops of Pokhara and everything else in between!

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Kathmandu

We arrived in Kathmandu one early afternoon in the middle of winter. Our spark for adventure was relit as we headed into unknown territory – the language was new, the people looked different and the whole environment was alien to us. We noticed the air was dustier, smoggier and dryer – the food was different. Thali sets were plenty to be had and the tea was to die for – don’t get me started on the momos.

For our stay, we decided on being around the main tourist district: Thamel. We were worried that Thamel would be too loud, too busy to get some shut-eye so we decided on staying just a couple blocks away – Lazimpat. Looking back and for the future, I would definitely try and staying in the quieter parts of Thamel as it is definitely the center of all activity. There is definitely a lot of things going on but there is also plenty of quieter corners and side alleyways.

The city is full of beauty and reeks of history. Everywhere you go, at every direction, there is always something happening and something to look at. Many ancient shrines and places of worship can be found throughout the city – ranging from small to whole squares and neighborhoods.

Thamel Recommendations

Pilgrim’s Book House – Don’t waste your time anywhere else if you’re looking for art supplies, maps, souvenirs, postcards and much much more – this place has it all. Whether you’re looking for a unique gift or just a new sketchbook at a very affordable price with the quality still in mind – Pilgrim’s has got it for you.

Bella Luna – for the pizza lovers (guilty) this place is tucked away in a little corner alleyway – their pizzas are great and the service was efficient, fast and great. The prices are affordable and very much in the Thamel range.

Goreto Gear Traders – Nepal is the trekking mecca. In Kathmandu you will especially notice the countless gear shops, hiking-ware stores littering the streets. These shops are definitely not the place to find authentic and branded stuff – they sell knock offs and cheap alternatives – alternatives that can still do the job mind you. However, none of these shops ever have the price on and when they do its usually a ridiculous amount. So we searched through dozens and found the best one – Goreto Gear Traders. Yes they sell the same things – but what they excel at is their service. They don’t push you into buying more stuff – they actually did the opposite for us. We told them what trek we were planning on doing, and they told us what we needed and what we didn’t. They are also very easy going, patient and knowledgable. Best yet, we found that their prices are the fairest and cheapest amongst the plethora of shops in Thamel.

Shuimter Korean Restaurant – Craving some authentic, tasty Korean dishes? Look no further as Schuimter has got what you need. Their tasty kimchi, hot stone bowls, delicious and fresh ingredients will absolutely knock you out of the park. Best yet is the old man who owns the place – he makes everything from scratch, is very friendly and loves sharing stories. Talking to him felt like catching up with an old drinking buddy who you haven’t seen since the war ended.

Info Nepal Treks and Expedition – An absolute gem – a diamond in the rough. Thamel has got countless travel agencies who can book everything for you. The problem is finding the trust that you’re not getting absolutely scammed or ripped off. From a friend’s recommendation, we found Raju and his company. We decided to pay him a visit and he was just great to deal with. He isn’t pushy, he is knowledgeable and he can organize everything we could ever need. He even did us a solid and got us a free breakfast on our bus trip. If you’re looking for reliable, trustworthy and genuine – look no further. Raju is your guy.

Karnali – Right in the thick of it sits an unassuming restaurant. Karnali by Spize was our favourite nepali restaurant to visit. Not only are the tea refreshing and the dishes tasty but the food they serve there is filling (with refills) and really affordable. For around 1200 NPRs, we were able to feed ourselves for half of the day. We were so full that we would not need any dinner until later at night. It also goes without saying that the service is great, friendly and fast.

Yala Cafe – looking for a break from the busy noisy streets of Kathmandu? Head straight to Yala and you’ll find yourself in a peaceful, quiet setting in the middle of the city! Their servers there are also very friendly and personable – we made friends with them and they taught us a lot about Nepali culture and language. The tea they serve there is also very delicious and they have plenty of food options.

Kaemp 8848 – Looking for more quality in your hiking gear? Looking to support local businesses? Kaemp is a local Nepali brand that makes high quality gear. Sure the price is a bit dicey especially comparing it to the local knock off shops, but the quality is there.

The Art Gallery Cafe – tucked away at a neighborhood square, this spot is a hidden gem deep inside Kathmandu. Sit tight and enjoy the gallery while sipping great coffee. Better yet is the location of the shop – right in the heart of a neighborhood with a gorgeous pagoda to feast your eyes on.

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Pokhara

Pokhara is the gateway to the popular Annapurna Circuit – a legendary mountain range full of towering giants such as the Annapurna massif, Mardi Himal, Tilicho and more. Standing out from the rest is Machapuchare – other wise known as “Fish Tail”. This mountain is considered holy and has never been summitted. Due to its holy significance, the local government refuses to give out permits to trek here thus further solidifying its title as a “virgin” mountain.

Pokhara Recommendations

Pandey Restaurant has been our favourite restaurant in Pokhara. Just a street away from our stay, it was a very convenient place to grab some dinner. Convenience was not the only reason why we had gone every night. The food is top notch – we’ve been ordering the same thing for a whole week and we have not gotten sick of it. Each mouthful is delicious and we leave the place full and content. Best yet are the owners – this place is the stereotypical mom and pop shop; they are caring and provide the best service.

Pokhara Backpackers Hostel will take care of all your needs. We felt like they had every service a trekker could ask for – rides to any locations, a chill spot to hang out in, a kitchen and bar serving decently priced options, trekking permits, laundry, a nice room, a good breakfast, chill staff and much more. Ask and you shall receive; however I found that their prices are a bit more on the expensive side vs if you were to go comb through the other businesses in lakeside. They are a good hotel and also a travel agency.

One could never walk into a Nepalese city without seeing a hiking gear shop. With so many of them littering the streets, how can one find a trustworthy shop, with quality products, to take care of their trekking needs? Worry no more, Trek Equipment Solutions is what one would need. They have everything from bags, to shoes, to chemical tablets, to hiking poles, to everything. What really stands this place above the rest is the owner. He is a previous hiking guide and his knowledge of the trails can really give you some insight. He knows what the weather is like, what the quality of the trails are like, the tea houses and the camps. He knows what you’ll need and what you won’t. We did not feel pressured at all to rent more, buy more and he also put a lot of ease to our worries. We ended up renting equipment from him and buying a pair of shoes that I still love to wear to this day. He is also flexible when it comes to prices – we were able to negotiate a price we were both happy with.

Sarangkot – ride the cable car or hire a taxi up to Sarangkot – a mountain top neighborhood consisting of cafes, hotels, homestays, and amazing views. I would personally recommend the Hotel High Ground Inn as their rooms are fairly priced, the views priceless and the service top notch. They took care of us during our stay here as my partner was feeling ill. They truly care.

The Hills is a really nice cafe with some spectacular views, great vibes and plenty of comfortable seating. Their menu is full of delicious options and this one is worth the visit!

After a sleepy morning, we took our exhausted bones up towards Tadapani. Today’s hike is separated into three parts – the first section is a 400m ascent through dense forests, the usual stone steps and into a ridgeline called the Deurali Pass. This was my favourite part of the trek as we were blessed with a beautiful blue day and the view completely opened up. The heavy contrast between today’s blue bird to yesterday’s gloomy, cold, overcast, cloudy and grey weather was palpable. The hike up was hard, the views were astonishing and I would not have it any other way.

The second section is a lot more forgiving – a relatively flat traverse through the ridge with some views of the mountains consistently seen through the trees and then down the valley following a river downstream through small villages and houses. Unfortunately, during this downhill section you lose sight of the mountains as you delve deeper into the dense forests. Instead you get a constant calming noise of the water flowing through the land to enrich your downhill trek. As you reach the end of this second part, you’ll notice that you’re at the edge of one mountain with an open view at Trekker’s Sanctuary Lodge . You’re treated to an amazing open view of the surrounding area and a closer look to the final hurdle before Tadapani.

The third and final hurdle is unforgiving – especially since it is at the end of your day. I’d consider the theme for this trek as “up and down”. First part is up. Second is down. Third is both. Going down from the mountain all the way to the river using steep switch backs is tiring enough – however, once you reach the bottom, the second task of climbing up a mountain, just as steep, using stone switchbacks, can be the final nail to the coffin. We found this extremely exhausting and challenging. The only silver lining to this final challenge is that the climb is steep and short. With some perseverance and hard work, one could find themselves in the very quiet and beautiful village of Tadapani.

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