Vietnam
Vietnam’s fame precedes it; the country is still and always will be a marvel for the eyes. Its unrelenting spirit captures the mind and body….. and just throws you in there. In the thick of things. Its a cyclone mess. You can see it in Ho Chi Minh’s motorbike traffic . In the countless mountains in the north that seem to spread far and wide in the horizons. In the mad frenzy that is known as Hoi-An-When-The-Sun-Goes-Away. In Hanoi’s old French quarter. But yet it lures you in. It lures you in this beautiful chaos and here you can find so much beauty all the noise and problems just seem to go away. That’s how Vietnam hits you.
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Ha Giang
Ha Giang itself is a city in the extreme north of Vietnam and it is the hub point for travellers who are planning on doing the infamous “Ha Giang Loop”. The Ha Giang loop is a motorbike route to explore the mystical landscapes of Northern Vietnam. It is also a great way to experience the lifestyles there and see all the amazing natural beauty that just seems to spread endlessly.
To get to Ha Giang, we recommend taking a bus; there are no airports and the nearest train station from the city is over 200kms away. Don’t fret as there are SO many tour groups, tour guides, tour companies, and everything tour related that offer a direct route to the city. Since it is so popular, the tour guide market can be quite diversified. There are some groups that have an entourage of over twenty to a hundred people who travel in big groups and all of the accommodations are all included. They eat together, share a big room, and sleep together. I’m sure the more you pay, the better the accommodations are. Two of my friends went ahead and did this type of tour with Jasmine Tour. If you like a crowd, meeting new people, and partying, this type could be for you.
We personally did not opt for this type of tour. We did our research and this simply just seemed too much for us; so we found a tour group that fit the bill. Dragon Team Tours seem to be a perfect fit for us so we took our chance with them. They offer a more personal, smaller group; there was only five of us. Each of us had a driver to do all the driving as we took in all the views. I would highly highly suggest this agency as they specialized in smaller groups and seem to take a route COMPLETELY off the beaten path; this is both a great amazing thing and a not so fun thing sometimes. This is great because their routes are very different from the big groups and we frequently went to off-beaten paths and went to see amazing sights that NO other major group tour even went to. We had a lot of the beautiful spots all to ourselves.
Though this type of group led us to amazing, secluded and beautiful spots, getting to these spots could be considered a down side. Since these spots are so off-the-beaten-path, our drivers took routes that the bigger groups did not.
We went through little villages where one of our drivers stopped to buy some delicious juicy fruit to share with all of us with a view.
Since our route was often out-of-the-way, some of the roads were far from perfect. Some could barely be considered a road; mere humps of hard ground with potholes the width of the path itself. Some roads we went to were basically walk-ways used by the local villagers; wide enough for a pair of feet and conveniently for us, wide enough for a bike tire. Some roads were still being built. Some roads were still being carved out of the mountain. The ride itself is also no joke; yes, we had personal drivers each but it was no smooth sailing. Our drivers were professional, experienced and strong but unfortunately you will still feel all the bumps and the turns. After a long day’s worth of riding, getting off of that motorcycle and getting into a bed of clouds is all your body yearns for.
All this considered, the Ha Giang loop is not one to be missed when travelling to Vietnam. Especially when you are physically able to take the tolls of the motorbike ride. The views are fantastic. The food is great. The people you meet are fun and kind and one can make memories that last a lifetime.
special shout out to our group tour guide, tom, who lifted our spirits when the electricity went down during the heat, when our backs, our butts, and arms hurt after a long ride, and who does not fail to be a great friendly person all along the tour. Thanks Tom.
Cao Bằng
Cao Bằng is another extreme north Vietnam city; when we visited this city it heavily reminded us of our time in the city of Ha Giang. Here you will find everything you need; anything from hostels, hotels, great food, friendly locals, great pizza , motorbike rentals and so much more! To get here, we took a local bus from Ha Giang, went on a two hour ride with a van and walked 20 minutes from the drop off point to our hotel. There are also ways to get here from Hanoi, and tour guides and groups that you can do business with that can directly get you here.
Now why exactly would you want to go to Cao Bằng? Just about an hour and a half ride away is one of the most amazing waterfalls I have ever went to see. A multi-plateau falls with many waterfalls all around and being the border of China and Vietnam, Ban Gioc falls is the main attraction in this region.
I wrote about our adventure during that fateful day here.
The landscapes to get there is also worth mentioning; from all the granite rocks and limestone giants that protrude from the ground to the valleys of rice farming, this region is another example of Vietnam’s rich awe-inspiring landscapes. The ride is not as bad as Ha Giang Loop, you wont be traversing any mountains. Rolling hills were the worst we saw. Water Buffalos being a common sight on the road. Rice hats in rice fields. We also saw way less tourists and travellers during our time here so that feeling of crowdedness and the pressure for tourist money is basically nonexistent. The city itself is full of life and provides you with everything you need to see the sights nearby.
Hanoi
Our favorite city in South East Asia, Hanoi is full of adventure and things to see and do. We spent over a week in Hanoi’s French quarter; we thoroughly explored every street, tried plenty of cuisines, haggled at every fake merchandise stores, and enjoyed a lovely treat at every Mixue. Every street in the French Quarter has always got something for everyone. If coffee is what you’re looking for, there is a ca phe in every corner serving top quality Vietnamese coffee. If traditional Vietnamese cuisine is what you are searching for, fear not, as there are plenty of plastic chair stalls for you to choose from in every street. If you’re looking for a nice peaceful afternoon walk, the lake provides just that. If you’re keen to improve your culinary skills, you could take a cooking course. If you’re hungry for a quick light snack, Banh Mi stalls litter the street. Hanoi is the perfect culinary center.
Hanoi can also be the perfect jumping point for a traveller; its got a huge international airport, there are countless tour shops selling tour packages, transports and adventures anywhere in Vietnam. You could also do all your shopping here before returning home.
Funny enough, our favorite Indian restaurant ever is in Hanoi; Pk Spice is the perfect mix of no-nonsense and perfect portions of delicious authentic Indian food. During our stay here, we went 4 total times. I would highly recommend going here if Indian food is what you’re looking for. We miss having their food and their ridiculously sized naan dearly.
Hoi An and Da Nang
Our stay in Hoi An was mostly in Old Town where ancient culture and history is preserved. There are many pagodas, shrines, bridges and buildings centuries old and more. The river that flows through also adds tremendous beauty to the town. Reading all about its culture and historic wealth, we made sure to stay close by; we actually stayed around a 5 minute walk from the center.
During the hot summer days, Hoi An is a ghost town. Shops are open, services are available, shopkeepers tend to their storefronts but there are hardly any crowds nearby. As the sun recedes away, the crowds and the tour busses start pouring in. In just a matter of minutes, the ghost town hums with life. In an hour the streets will be packed. The lights of the boats in the river like fireflies in a field; except these fireflies number in the hundreds.
Hoi An is also famous for their tailors. One would find dozens of shops in old town alone and hundreds of workers all vying for your tailor needs. Ana actually got a customized dress made here. Friends of ours got boots. Suits. Jackets. Anything you might need. They can make it.
The night market is also another highlight; with the crowds swarming in at night, markets pop up to take advantage of flooding customers. There would streets full of vendors selling everything from electronics to knives, to shoes, to baskets, to jewelry and more. Our favorite vendors were the fruit vendors.
Walking around and getting lost in the Old Town throughout the cool night was a treat every time.
Da Nang is quite the opposite. Its modernized with big great paved roadways, high rises, hotels, supermarkets, big convenience stores, and everything you get from a city. The beach in Da Nang was quite the culture shock; it was completely empty during the day and buzzing with life during the afternoon and especially at dawn. Seeing the crowds get up to greet the rising sun with dips at the beach, walks along the beach, exercises along the beach and full aerobic exercise programs with accompanying fitness instructors and loud music at the beach was quite something else.
When in Da Nang make sure you don’t miss out on Marble Mountains. Another site with a lot of historic, culture and religious value; but if none of these interests you, the fact that there are huge, amazing and intricate cave systems within the mountain hopefully would. There is an elevator you could take to go to the top for a fee or you could challenge the mountain going up the stairs. As per usual for heavy tourists areas, there are a lot of haggling and misinformation and ways for you to lose your money unnecessarily. Make sure you do your research as things always change. Things like parking, vendors, scams, false tickets and more can sour your experience.
Another must-see is the Chùa Linh Ứng . Around 15-20 minutes of a scooter ride from the beach where we were staying at is a Buddhist temple. There are ample parking and a “donation” is highly smiled upon. There are beautiful pagodas. Lively lush gardens. Beautiful views of the ocean, the beach and the city. Best of all, a huge towering statue of a buddha. This was a surprisingly enjoyable area to explore and the ride there was very pleasant. I would highly recommend checking this place out when in the area.
Ho Chi Minh
Ho Chi Minh was our first taste of Vietnam. We had crossed the quickly-developing Cambodia and got put right into smack down middle of urbanized, six-lane bumper to bumper traffic and the scooter frenzied Ho Chi Minh.
Sufficed to say, we were a little bit overwhelmed. It did not take us long to bounce back and in no time we were exploring the dark tight alleyways, the underground malls, the storefronts, the crowded bustling streets, the night life, the cafes, the 711s, the busy banh mi stands and many many more.
Our time here was short and the area we explored was relatively small. Though in my memories and in my head I have clear pictures of the places we went to, I unfortunately did not have enough pictures. Things that were missing from here were the tight residential alleyways we explored, the quiet park above an underground mall, the horrendous traffic and some of the great noisy night life.
Ho Chi Minh’s charm lies somewhere deep in its chaos, its noise and its bustling culture. We found it endearing and loud. We found it tight and intimate. You just gotta look for it.
Ninh Binh
Ninh Binh was a place I could not believe did not have more people visiting; to be completely fair we visited in early May where the off-season was just starting. It was hot and humid but just as beautiful. Maybe even more so as there were no crowds or traffic and the air hummed with cicada orchestras.
We arrived in a sleepy early morning at 5am, dropped off at the side of the highway for “taxi” hyenas to pressure us into paying ridiculous amounts for a ride into town. Little do they know, I am extremely cheap and unreasonable when I am sleepy. I threatened to walk the 20 minutes to our hotel with our bags in tow and they could tell I meant it. So they reduced their prices ten fold where it was actually fair.
After bouncing back from our early morning, we quickly took to renting a scooter and heading into town to explore. Ninh Binh is full of beauty and it all seemed endless. Every corner there was something else to look at. Past every emerald cliff another stood behind it. Rows of golden rice fields baked under the sun and rivers flowed endlessly throughout the land.
I would highly recommend staying at Green Mountain Homestay. Its a hostel with amazing views all around and prime location as you are not too far away from the main attractions. They did not give off a party vibe nor was it a very social one either; it merely provided you with great opportunities to make plans, make friends or simply enjoy your stay. Though the prices are a little bit on the expensive side, the views of the green hills around and the relaxing amenities provided is plenty worth it.
Going on the Trang An tour also comes highly recommended. Four people are placed in a row boat where you then choose your route. Then you are rowed by amazingly hardworking local women down the sleepy rivers and lakes of Ninh Binh, through caves, through lily pads and through the beautiful water systems that make this place so special. Its a bit expensive, but its worth it.
They provide you with an umbrella to protect you from the sun. They also provide you with paddles to help out with the rowing. The tours has multiple stops throughout and you could find washroom breaks and tiny stores for snacks and even ice cream. Though the local woman did not speak English with us, she was extremely kind and accommodating. I have all the respect for them as they work hard to row tourists for hours every day. It also helps that they took pictures of us.
Ninh Binh was truly a gem we thoroughly enjoyed. The scooter rides we took across the area was quiet, peaceful and relaxing. The views all around never failed to inspire and awe me. We truly enjoyed exploring Ninh Binh’s ample simple beauty.
check out our dedicated gallery for Ninh Binh here!
Da Lat
Da Lat is nestled in Southern Vietnam in the middle of sleepy mountains. I would consider this city as a hidden gem in Vietnam as it is often overlooked, not mentioned at all, or even skipped by travellers in Vietnam. I don’t blame them as there are so many amazing things to see in this country and so little time to see it all. However, I consider it a great shame as the city offers everything loved by travellers; genuine sense of culture, an abundant natural beauty all around, great adventures just around the corner, great food and a uniqueness only Da Lat can claim for itself.
Our love and appreciation for Da Lat can also be read here
Recommendations
Primavera Italian Restaurant is nestled deep in Da Lat. It actually sits in an alleyway that is easy to miss. An alleyway full of other restaurants and shops and places of living. An alleyway full of character and art works. Right next to it is a community grounds where you can really feel and hear people living their lives. Its location is not the only reason it comes highly recommended; the food and service is impeccable. The pizzas we ordered were nothing short of genuine delicious Italian pizza. The service was quick and professional. The dining environment was pleasant; not too quiet, not too loud, just right. My cheap frugal wallet’s only complaint is the price; it is definitely relatively expensive for the local areas. It is still cheaper than north american or european prices but nonetheless, you could find a bowl of pho 5 times cheaper in the area in some local’s kitchen.
If you are looking for amazing great delicious superb tasty beautiful pizza, check this place out.
Cà Phê Bút Chì is peak Da Lat. Its a nonchalant unassuming ca phe. It tries to prove nothing but proves everything. It is casual, mysterious, interesting, but also feels like home. Actually, I think it is in someone’s actual home. You enter the front entrance and there are some tables and seating in the front and a kitchen in the middle. However, if you look further in, there is actually a whole section with an upstairs at the back of the property. This section is filled with casual and comfortable furniture and decor. Decor that feels like a great adventurer who travelled all over the world and survived all sorts of ordeals retired, made Da Lat their home, and left all of their collections in this cafe. You could spend hours just browsing through their collection.
If that is no interest to you, you could also just look at the peaceful mountain village rooftops and listen to the quiet rain drops on the roof. You could listen to the owner practice his guitar riffs from his kitchen. You could also order some of their delicious local coffee, pastries and desserts at a reasonable price.
I would say throughout all my travels in South East Asia, this unassuming cafe was my favourite. Some may find its location a bit far from the center of the city, but that is exactly why it works.
Phúc Long Trương Công Định is another cafe recommendation in Da Lat. Not for its character or for its mystery or what have you; but just for how useful and good it is. Its right smack down in the center of town and it has multiple floors. Akin to a starbucks, this cafe gives off a very young generation work vibe. Its youth energy also means modernity; easy to read menus, english availability, efficient and modern services, and most important of all, good coffee. It can get busy and a bit loud. It is a little bit more expensive relatively to other local cafes but I think it is worth it.
We personally came here to avoid the downpour rain while waiting for our bus to the next stop. I did not expect much but surprisingly it impressed me. The views on the top floors are also great. The only complaint is to get to the top floor, one must climb up many stairs. If you are a backpacker like I was carrying sets of bags, you knee might dread this place.
Otherwise, it is a lovely, useful and handy spot to hang out in.
Maze Bar is a very unique one. Almost an acquired taste. Its near the center of the city and first hearing about it from a fellow traveller in Indonesia, I did not know what to make of it. It was described to me as some sort of Maze with lots of little rooms to get lost in. That’s exactly what it was but its less of a corn maze but more of a cave maze. The art is cool and nifty. The rooms are unique but can feel small and constricting. Some rooms are dark. Some have a cool colorful hue. There is plenty of stair cases. Plenty of hidden alleyways. You could definitely get lost.
The parts that I enjoyed the most were the great drinks served in the bar on the first floor. They were relatively cheap and super tasty. Another highlight were the relaxed atmosphere. It was not crowded at all. There were plenty of room to sit down and enjoy the silly decors or enjoy the night lights of Da Lat. The best part was surprisingly neither the Maze or the bar! It was actually the utmost top floor. On the top floor is the roof. Its accessible by going through the maze and there is a huge open garden! Here you can get some fresh air, enjoy the night light views, and sit down and have drink.
Like previously mentioned, the Maze bar is a very unique acquired taste that left a surprisingly pleasant impression on us.
Tuyền Lâm Lake was an accidental discovery. Ana and I rented a motorbike from our hotel and set off from the center of Da Lat to find some waterfall out of town. After a hilariously stressful fiasco of trying to find gas in the city, we were finally ready to head out. Google maps directions is the real MVP for this one as it sent us off to the main road for the fastest and easiest ride. However, the road was completely closed off as it was under major construction. Due to my stubborn persistence, I opted to not rely on the directions but to figure out google maps ourselves. I mean, this is Vietnam. There must be another way to get to the waterfalls.
Going through neighborhoods, getting lost, retracing our steps, finding view points, stopping for breaks, and turning back were all part of our afternoon trying to get to the falls. Unbeknownst to us, we actually stopped caring about the destination. We were merely enjoying exploring Da Lat’s beauty. One of the beauties we stumbled upon is this lake exactly. Its extensive network of lakes and water ways gives a chance for nature to breath. Here you can find all sorts of things: view points, hotels, attractions, activities, places of gathering and many more.
This recommendation is not specifically because this lake is just out of this world. Its about getting lost, going for a nice afternoon ride, appreciating life, enjoying the little things, and appreciating the little beauties Da Lat has to offer.
Datanla Waterfall is a fun beautiful drive ways away in the outskirts of Da Lat. Though a bit touristic and crowded, the waterfall towers and rumbles over the area. To get to the area, we took a rented scooter and paid the 55k VND to take the toboggan ride up and down. Though it was a bit busy, it was still very fun taking the toboggan. I do wish we had the track to ourselves or even just more space between other rides to fully enjoy our speed down to the mountain.
The Waterfalls and the area around is quite beautiful. There are many shops and services down there for your every need: ice cream, snacks, coffee, pictures, and more! The surroundings also have decors for the photo shoots. There are also groups who do canyoneering and rappelling down the waterfalls which looks extremely fun.
Id recommend Datanla Waterfalls as a great day outing to see a big and towering falls and to enjoy a day with the family or company.
Cat Ba
Visiting and seeing the infamous Ha Long Bay was on the top of my list when I travelled to South East Asia. As I made my rounds up from the Philippines to Indonesia to Thailand and finally to Vietnam, I had slowly started getting more and more information about this world famous bay. However, the more information I got, the less keen I was to visit. I was told by many that the bay was dirty and littered with trash. I was told it was crowded and expensive. I was told it was overrated and overhyped. I was told about a nearby island that is just as good, perhaps even better, and so much more affordable.
Cat Ba island is just across Ha Long city and neighbors the infamous Ha Long Bay; in fact they border each other. Instead of rendezvousing in Ha Long city and hopping into an overnight ferry around the bay, we opted into hopping on a ferry to Cat Ba city and spending our nights there instead. We opted into day trips around the bays instead and staying the night in a hotel. This way, our costs were kept affordable while still seeing all around the area.
This couldn’t work if we were sacrificing views and beauty for affordability; but Cat Ba had exactly all three. The city itself was beautiful and full of life; it was a major hub for transport and we had everything we needed close by. The views were terrific and absolutely amazing while being extremely affordable; we spent around 15 CAD a night staying at this hotel, with this view. I’d say we made the right choice as the overnight cruises around the bay was pricing around 150 CAD per Person. It would have been over 20 times more expensive. We were still able to wander around the bay and do all the day tours and activities. Everything from swimming in a sand beach on one of the islands to kayaking through caves and seeing the infamous Ha Long Bay.
I’m sure to say our choice was the right one made for us. We did not sacrifice beauty, views and adventure for affordability. We also conveniently had everything we needed near by. All while still being able to see the infamous bay.
Travellers Pursuits 