South Korea
Our first time in South Korea was filled with excited wonder with what the country has to offer for travelers like us. The first big difference is that Google Maps does not work well here at all – this was such a drastic blow as we relied on it so heavily in Japan where we were at days before. Apps like KakaoMap and Naver worked much better. Busan was our first city and left an amazing impression on us. We visited Jeunjo and fell in love with the city. Seoul was a solid city with plenty to offer.
Seoul
The heavy hitter for South Korea, Seoul stands as the symbol for the country. It is jam packed with beautifully preserved temples, neighborhoods, and palaces. Throughout its preserved history, Seoul is also covered with modern urbanity with stunning skyscrapers, a decent transit system and different districts with everything one could need.
We personally stayed in the Jongo-no neighborhood next to the Jaegung shrine. I would personally recommend staying here as it was the perfect jumping off point to a major subway station. Many areas of interest are also nearby and is either just a brisk walk or a station stop away. Many shops and restaurants also line the streets nearby; the hardest choice to make everyday is where you will eat out as you are spoiled for choice. Visiting the Ikseon-dong Hanok Village and enjoying the quaint little alleyways full of character and dining options is a great way to explore this part of the city.
One could also hop into the subway and make their way into the city. We visited many areas and here are some of our favorites:
Gyeongbokgung Palace is a very popular place to visit in Seoul and for good reason. Its centrally located and is easy to get to – there are a handful of subway stations all around the area. It is also surrounded by many shops, restaurants and other things to do and see. Other than convenience, it is also a very beautiful place to explore and surround yourself with South Korea’s heritage and culture. A popular thing to do here is to rent a traditional Korean dress and snap some pictures with it on in the palace. Personally, I would highly recommend visiting the museum in the palace as it is a great place to learn all about the country’s culture and history. When we visited it was also free so that was a big plus.
Bukchon Hanok Village – one of the neighborhoods in Seoul that are surrounded by traditional Hanok buildings. I visited on a sleepy morning during my early walks. I would highly recommend it as it is quite a sight to see all of these neighborhoods still housing people to this day. Unfortunately, many of these neighborhoods are barred from tourists during the early morning and late night hours. For good reason i’m sure. This one did not have any guards or barriers as many others do when I visited. However, “please be quiet” signs are easily visible and please respect them during your visit as well.
Sanchon was a very unique, delightful and wonderful experience. Sitting down for a dinner here comes highly recommended. They serve traditional Korean temple cooking – that’s the best way I could describe it. The tea was phenomenal – it was so good that we bought ourselves a whole bag and enjoyed it throughout our travels all over the world. There was even someone playing classic piano as we dined in. Its worth it, come and check it out for yourself.
Sulbing is a cafe chain that can be found all over South Korea. We only really started noticing and jumping on the hype train here in Seoul. They can be found all throughout the city and I am proud to say we went to a handful of them. We only really tried one thing on their menu – Bingsu. A South Korean dessert that we were hooked on after just one scoop. The shaved ice’s texture is so impossibly fluffy. Its sweet but not too sweet. The toppings are unique in their own right with flavors that are out of this world. Need I say more?
Cheonggyecheon is a beautiful park that goes through the city. It is a spot that is worth checking out. We only saw portions of this park during our walks and I wish we had spent more time going through its canals. Saving it for next time – don’t harbor the same regret I have; make sure you visit when you’re in the city.
LOL Park – if you’re a big League of Legends fan, this place is for you. Its everything League Of Legends and they truly don’t hold back any punches. If you’re lucky enough to snag a ticket during one of the pro games, I would highly recommend it. Otherwise, explore the gift shops, computer cafes and other cool stuff they have in display. This is the best place to nerd out about a video game.
Myeong-dong and Cafe Coin – Myeong-dong is a district full of life, shops and food options centrally located in the city. If you’re looking for the classic Korean skin care, gift shops, clothing stores and more – this is the place for you. We enjoyed walking around here shopping amongst the chaos. It can get pretty crowded since no one can resist a good deal. We found Cafe Coin in a little corner of the district as we were starting to feel overwhelmed by it all. It is a quiet spot to finally enjoy some peace and great coffee. I would highly recommend this place and it still stands to this day as my favourite cafe in South Korea
Yeouido Hangang Park – another great park just slightly out of the center of the city. It took us a bit more work and effort to reach this place but luckily, there is a station right outside. Its a popular space to hangout and enjoy a walk by the river. It is especially popular for K-drama enjoyers as many of the iconic scenes were filmed here. It isn’t anything crazy or special but its a nice change of pace from the hustle and bustle of the city.
Busan
Busan was an absolute breath of fresh air – we had just spent 2 weeks in Japan and our expectations were exceeded. There is a stark culture difference between the two – Busan is rowdier, louder, some would even say dirtier – there is a raw grunge vibe that introduced us very well into the South Korean culture. People – especially the ajummas – were much more frank and direct. Not necessarily rude but they were definitely not afraid to speak their mind.
There was still plenty of beauty around of course – the distant mountains is a constant background to the small alleyways and streets lined with delicious eateries and shops. Look no further for beauty than in the many many many beauty stores where products at home would usually snag a hefty price for – here it is just a fraction of the price.
Our Busan Recommendations List
Visit Haeundae Beach – one of the best city beaches I have ever been to. It is clean, it is vibrant with activity, it is beautiful, it is spacious, and it is one you can’t miss. We took the city transit here hoping for a great spot to view the sunset – after an easy 30 minutes on the subway, we got out on a strip filled with restaurants, shops, entertainment and all your needs could ask for. After a short walk to the beach, we were treated to an endless view of the ocean, an amazing skyline of towering buildings and a beautiful horizon of mountains to complete the picture.
One of the best markets we have ever been in is Bujeon Market in Busan. Immerse yourself in hundreds of stalls and thousands vying for the best price every day. We saw so many different goods, fruits, veggies, dried herbs, fishes, meats and so so much more that I can’t even name. Its size and scale is also very impressive – it felt like a crowded maze easy to get lost in. Pushing your way through the constant stream of crowds is also a skill that is required to survive this place. The best thing about this market is its authenticity. During our visit, it felt like a true market – one where the locals sell and buy goods. It did not feel like an overpriced tourist spot at all. In fact, we did not see any other visible foreigners during our exploration of this whole spot. I wish I took pictures of this market but it truly did not feel like a place to take pictures in. It was a place to trade, to buy and sell and thats all it needed to be.
Sinjeon Ttokbokki Seomyon was definitely an experience. It is buffet style. It is a great spot for some South Korean Cuisine. Better yet is that it is very affordable. All these variables form a perfect spot for a food option locals flock to. They were very accommodating to us as foreigners.
Woojung Dolsot Bibimbap Seomyon – another food gem found in the Seomyon district. They offered many South Korean dishes. The service was quick and friendly. The food tasted amazing. The price was affordable and the kimchi was endless. Literally. It was an all you can eat kimchi spot with tea and soup also in the mix. We dined here twice and i’m sure to dine here again when we come back.
Busan Citizen’s Park
Sunset at Haeundae Beach
Nights at Haeundae Beach
Sunset lit the sky at the beach
Sculpture/Structure at park
Some of Busan’s skyline
Take lots of pics!
Streets full of beauty!
Jeonju
Our first impression as we rolled into the city was a general sense of… “meh”. We got an UBER from the train station and the city did not look like much. The skyline were dotted with boring pale blocks and everything else seemed normal or average. I remember thinking to myself “This is what we got to work with for 4 nights?”
We got settled in, had some rest and in the early evening, we found a restaurant we wanted to go to and went to have some dinner. Our walk to dinner lead us towards the heart of the city – near all of the attractions, the castles, the temples, and the Hanok villages. Our walk showed us that the city was more than what we saw from the taxi. We saw ancient walls and quiet streets. Traditional houses dotted the neighborhoods and we felt at ease, safe and at peace. It felt like we were taken back in time and enjoyed a life with no responsibilities and problems. It was truly a calming walk at night through the beautiful city of Jeonju.
Another thing we noticed were the marvelous Ginko trees lining the streets. We visited in fall and the trees were bursting with golden flare – its leaves also littered the streets leaving a blankets of yellow on top of the dark concrete roads. Its a sight to see and I would highly recommend visiting during the fall.
The next day, we went to explore the city during in the day’s light and it goes without saying it is just as beautiful as we saw it in the night. It comes into life and the main streets are packed with visitors. There are still quiet side streets to be enjoyed and plenty of things to see and do. Ana and I got our sketches done here. I would also recommend straying a little ways out of the main tourist hub and exploring the outside areas. We visited and explored the quiet and beautiful Wansan Park. We had wanted to go and visit Maisan but unfortunately, due to logistic errors, we missed the bus going here. It looks wonderful and we would definitely try again!
All in all, Jeunjo may not astound in the first sighting, it drew us in through its serene subtle beauty and its quiet peace. On our next visit, we would definitely come back and I can not recommend enough coming here to see it for yourself.
Our Jeonju Recommendations
Manchu Cafe is a very interesting spot. The interior design is modern with a taste of rugged that reeks of class. The choices are a bit on the expensive side of things so I hesitated to come in here. With some encouragement from Ana, we decided to sit down and see what they had to offer. It felt like fine dining but it was a cafe and it did not have the fine dining price tags. We sat down to enjoy a refreshing drink and a very unique bingsu – their flagstaff product that everyone should try at least once.
Jeondong Ddeokgalbi is a great place to have some Korean cuisine. We were welcomed warmly and the service was fast and accommodating. The two times we had dinner here was full of warmth and good food. We especially liked the side dishes offered to us and the makgeolli. Highly recommended.
Exploring the Gyeonggijeon Shrine and the surrounding area was one of the highlights of our trips. The great vibes, the friendly atmosphere and the overall sense of great times gave us a great impression of the city. Best yet were the ginko trees were in full golden bloom and provided an amazingly beautiful sight to see from every corner of the shrine. This is a great place to hang out and explore nearby areas.
Jeonju Hanok Village is the cultural, heritage sight of Jeonju. It is filled with traditional houses and beautiful alleyways and ancient streets. People still actively live within these houses so expect some blocked off areas. Nonetheless, the visitors still flock to this area as its undeniable beauty is hard to resist. If we were to visit this great city again, I would look for a place to stay in this village.
Acorn Caricature – a very cute shop offering a quick, cute and affordable caricature. For less than 15CAD$ we were able to get a great caricature and capture a memory. The artist was very nice, accommodating, patient and spoke great English. She was able to make us comfortable while delivering a great picture. There seem to be several artists working in these booths and all of their works are amazing and accurate. If you’re looking for something fun to do, visit their shop in Jeonju.
PNB bakery Main
is another Jeonju icon. This bakery has been in service for many years and has grown with the city. The bakery did not feel very personable as it felt like they were just there to sell their bread. However, to be fair, their bread is pretty damn good. The pastries are solid and it seems like everything is made fresh. Better yet is the cafe on the second floor where one can enjoy their pastry with some coffee and a great view of the city. For some reason during our stay, we were the only ones at the cafe floor so we were able to truly enjoy it by ourselves.
Travellers Pursuits 