Japan
Japan has always been on top of our list and for a good reason. Its famous for iconic landmarks, an amazing food scene, modern amenities, old fashion life style and a unique culture that is easy to love. So when we finally booked our trip to Japan for the first time in the fall season of 2024, we were beyond ecstatic.
So many things to see, and so many things to do. These were the over-arching theme of our planning stages for this country. We had many questions on how to get from point A to point B to point C all the way to point X, Y, Z. We also had to decide what to see and where to go with our limited amount of time. Another question that hung heavy in our minds was how will we budget for this trip?
In this section, we hope to give insight into Japan and hopefully ease some worry and headaches that could come with planning a trip here. Read our recommendations, what to see and what to do in the different areas we visited. Finally, we hope at the very least to show some appreciation and respect that this amazing country dutifully deserves.
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Tokyo
Our trip through Japan started where many other adventures start: through the giant metro of Tokyo. Our flight arrived in the early evening and by the time we had gotten through the customs, onto the train, and on the pavement to find our hotel, the streets of Shinjuku was packed with night owls, host club workers, aimless wanderers and everything else in between.
Tokyo’s size and density is no joke; as we only had 3 nights here, it was simply impossible to see all the sights. Instead, we will focus on covering two areas: Shinjuku and Taito City.
Shinjuku
Known for its lively, vibrant and busy nightlife, Shinjuku is also home to quiet, serene and peaceful streets. Having the busiest station in the world, Shinjuku is a great place to stay as it provides many options to hop around and see as much as possible in Tokyo. There are also plenty of things to see and do in this area like spending the night in the intimate bars and alleyways of Golden-Gai, seeing Godzilla in person, roaming the nightlife streets of Kabukicho, visiting and paying respects to the Hanazono Shrine and so much, much more!
Behind the lights, the noise, and the crowds, deeper in Shinjuku exists the Japan that hides in plain sight; quiet streets, lazy river walk-ways, temples and shrines in every corner, reliable trains working like clockwork, suited salary men making their way to work, uniformed school children following suite, and a uniform order through all the density of it all.
I had taken flights across Canada and across the Pacific to arrive in Japan exhausted, sleepy but excited to explore. We were jetlagged and our sleeping schedules were hard at work to catch up. We had long naps in the afternoon, pass out at 8pm and I would wake up at 5 am. I decided to spend my early mornings exploring; exploring the sleepy streets of Shinjuku and seeing it all pass me by. The trains never seemed to be late. Everyone always had somewhere to be and I would aimlessly wander through it all. Visiting the places of worship and paying my respects to empty shrines were a great way to start my day.
Taito
Our one full day in Tokyo was spent exploring the surrounding areas of Shinjuku. With so many things to choose to see and do, we were pulled apart as to where to go. After some debate, we decided to head out to see Senso-ji and the surrounding neighborhoods. This temple is definitely a magnet for visitors and for a good reason. Its beauty, grandeur and significance is hard to capture in words so we tried to capture as much as we could in pictures. During our exploration, we could even see the Tokyo Skytree from a fair distance. I would highly recommend visiting the Sumida Park and walking along the river to get a great view of the “Golden Poop“ and Sumida City’s fantastic sky line.
After a day full of exploring the concrete jungle, cafe hopping, and getting lost in the subways, we were exhausted and needed a break from the city. Luckily, Tokyo offers many green spaces and national gardens littered all through out! We chose to visit the Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden for its close proximity and since it was on our way back home anyways. I was unsure at first how this place would turn out but as soon as we got to the gate, we were greeted with towering trees ancient in age, beautiful overlooks and views of the greenery and wildlife enjoying a break from the big city just as we were. We walked through the garden with weary feet and soles and came out rejuvenated and ready for more to see.
Mount Fuji Lake Yamanakako
Leaving Tokyo towards the direction of Mount Fuji was a welcomed change of pace. After three days of exploring and getting lost in its streets, subway lines, shrines, temples and donquijotes, we knew we needed a city break. So off we went to the mountains. We took the JR rail train line from Shinjuku Station all the way to Mt. Fuji Station where we got off, waited at one of the bus stops and took another bus to our final destination: Lake Yamanakako. There plenty of places to choose from when it comes to staying near Mt Fuji but we ended up choosing to stay here.
I would personally recommend staying in Murabito, a vibrant hostel hosted by amazingly warm hosts. We opted to only stay one night in one of their private, traditional room but I wish we stayed more. The hostel is designed and operated by hosts who knows exactly what the traveler needs and the whole experience is seamless, easy, pleasant and elevated our limited time in the area. They also offer bike rentals so you could easily bike around the lake and have an amazing view of Mount Fuji. The lake has a great network of bike trails that covers almost its full perimeter. Unfortunately the trail disappears for a bit in the east side which prevents a full loop of the lake. There are still sidewalks and road ways shared with vehicles that we used to make the full loop and visit cafes and antique shops!
Kyoto
Japan’s Cultural Center
Kyoto
We explored the Gion area, sunset walks by the river, visited artisanal museums, and so so much more! Kyoto has so much to offer so we decided to dedicate 5 whole nights here. Three were spent near the city central and two were further up north in its more suburb residential area. We explored many of the mainstream tourist attractions like Fushimi Inari while also getting lost in its streets and alleyways.
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Our arrival in Kyoto was met with a tremendous orchestra from live band playing in the streets. Their songs were loud and deafening yet it was a pleasant to hear and witness. We had heard them play as soon as we finished carrying our luggage through two flights of stairs as we were getting out of the subway station. The band was a thousands of birds – that isn’t the band name. No, it was literally thousands of birds flocking and singing and tweeting about in the Kyoto streets. They filled the air with their ear-deafening songs as hundreds of onlookers – including us- stood to watch them perform.
It was quite the lasting first impression of the city and a foreboding premonition of our experience. As the rain started pelleting down from the sky, we had to rush down the dark rainy Kyoto alleyways to try and find our hotel. With a little some luck and hurried paces, we were able to to find our play of stay without getting too wet.
p.s. Japan is considerably more expensive relative to other countries in the region. Finding a suitable hotel for one’s budget can be quite challenging. We found that booking online and early to be the best fit for our style.
KYOTO at a GLANCE
On a quick look, Kyoto is filled with tourist attractions stemming from both historical and cultural importance. With many so close to each other and compacted in one region, there is always something to see and do in the city. I would even go as far as say that there is hardly any time at all to fully explore everything; so make sure you start a list, a plan, or a method of tackling the many attractions you would like to see to make the most out of your visit!
Our List
Kyoto Gyoen National Garden and the Imperial Palace – RECOMMENDED – Situated in the middle of the city, the National Garden offers a great green space away from the hustle and bustle of it all. Its a big park where you could chill, spend time with friends and family, or see some tourist attractions. Its a very peaceful spot if you need a break from it all. In the middle of the garden, sits the Imperial Palace. They offer a free walk around the palace where you can get a glimpse of what life was like here many many years ago. One is able to see the beautifully preserved buildings and maintained gardens. The level of preservation that the Japanese have been able to keep this place at is amazing however it comes with the consequence of a lot of restricted access through the site. The walk through the palace is more of a guided tour where you are only allowed to walk through designated areas and there are roped off spots. This way it is more controlled and one has less freedom. Understandably, this is probably a main component of why they are able to preserve the area so well.
Gion Area – Hōkan-ji – Yasaka Shrine – HIGHLY RECOMMENDED but take note – This place is one of my favourite spots to explore. The Gion Area has so much to offer and see. At night, it turns into a quiet, serene, peaceful area full of restaurants with great food experiences to offer. We personally went to curry and tempura koisus. Our experience was superb! There was a little bit of a wait but they have nice, comfortable seating inside where we sat behind the curry bar and watched the show unfold in front of us. After a little ritual and some explanation from the hosts, we were free to dig in our delicious Japanese curry and we left the place satisfied, warm and content.
During the day however, this place can get quite crowded and touristy. I would highly highly recommend visiting this area during the early hours of the day. Personally, I explored this area thoroughly while going on a 5am run. The streets were empty and for the most part, I had the whole place to myself.
*Of course there are other early morning-goers and residents hanging about so you wont have it fully to yourself. This is however a thousand times better, in my opinion ,than the suffocating crowds you could encounter during the day. *
Arashiyama Bamboo Forest and Monkey Park – RECOMMENDED( but not really but kind of) – Ah yes. The infamous Arashiyama Forest from the many reels and videos. We came here from northern Kyoto so we took the bus, then the train to get here. First of all, Yes. It is a beautiful forest. However, it is so dang crowded and the main forest is only really just one long lane where the massive sea of crowds suffocate each other giving one a hard time to really appreciate it all. I’m sure there are other bamboo forests in the area that are way less crowded and just as beautiful. I’m sorry to say, we did not go to one.
The monkey park is also in the area, on the opposite side of the river. The monkeys itself are great and the park that they have built on top of the mountain is quite nice with treats for the monkeys and a restroom. An additional treat of a very nice view of the city is also available to you at the top. The hike however is quite straining especially if your peak era has long past you. Your climb starts at the base surrounded by great ancient trees. I’d honestly recommend visiting here if you’re in the area and if you’re keen for monkeys.
The true highlight however is the surrounding area and town. If you’re left slightly disappointed with the bamboo forest just as I was, fear not as there are plenty of other things to do and see. There are also a lot of restaurants and cafes and food shops all around so it is hard to go hungry here. My personal favourite was our time spent along the katsura river just chilling and spending quality time together. We spent it eating snacks and skipping rocks. The intrinsic beauty of the area is hard to ignore and easy to enjoy.
Fushimi Inari – HIGHLY RECOMMENDED but take note – Another social media giant joins our list and of course we had to visit and see what the hype was all about. The good news is that the hype is real. The thousand countless tori gates are as beautiful as they look in the videos; even more so I’d say. The bad news is that it is also as crowded as they say. The entrance is absolutely filled with crowds. The train to the station was suffocating. The main entry point had seas of people all about. It is as chaotic and loud as it gets.
Many say that you can avoid the torrents of people by going deeper into the park but we found that it can also be quite busy still. Instead, I’d recommend doing what we did: enter through the side. Here you’ll meet some groups of people trickling out of the park. We entered the side hoping for a calmer area and that is exactly what we got. Going up by Araki Shrine and into the forest bypasses the main crowds at the start. Instead, you are treated to a calmer, quieter section of the trail where people usually leave at. By the time you get to the main section of the path, deep in the forest, there’s less of the crowd and more chance for an empty picture. You’ve also gone through quieter and emptier shrines with some of the best kitsune statues.
we also spent some time replenishing, relaxing and hanging out at a little amazake shop by the route. We were absolutely shocked how empty the place was considering how yummy the amazake was and how close it was to the tori gates. We sat down by some shrines and some kitsune statues enjoying a cold beverage with no noise or crowds. The grandma attending the shop is also so sweet and lovely. I would heavily recommend this spot while in the area – not only for a relief from the noise but also to enjoy a classic Japanese drink. あまざけ末富亭
Kinkaku-ji – Not Really Recommended – Situated in the north side of Kyoto, sits a golden temple by a calm pristine lake. Its is quite a beautiful sight seeing its pictures floating around on the internet and it is also just as beautiful in person. However, that’s pretty much all you get with this one. A post card picture. It is also pretty crowded and busy and could sometimes be a challenge to get your perfect picture as there is a lot of competition. Its also hard to get in early as I had thought I was pulling a fast one by going in, in the very early hours of the morning; however it was closed. So we came back later and place was filled. After the first viewpoint, and going around the golden castle, the narrow path leads you to a quick exit. I wish the park was bigger and there was more open paths for us to explore and see the beautiful golden castle in different angles. Instead it felt like a very quick, controlled, short path from the entrance to the exit. Come in, see the thing, get out.
Kinosaki Onsen
To fully experience and understand Japanese culture, visiting an Onsen (public bathhouse) can provide an invaluable experience in doing so. Or if you’re like Ana and just love really warm baths, then Onsens might be your thing too. As foreigners with visible tattoos however, we were a bit worried about going to an onsen in Japan as it is culturally not accepted and even feared. To prevent inflicting and disrupting someone else’s experience in the public bathhouse, we looked for options. We explored tattoo coverings and even just flat out wrote onsens off. However, we found an advertised “tattoo and foreigner friendly” town in the northside of the Kyoto region.
We found Kinosaki Onsen
Kinosaki Onsen is a three hour JR Rail train away from Osaka station. Our first arrival was filled with pleasant surprises; when we got out of the train station, an elderly woman insisted we hop on her bus to get to our hotel. We thought this was the usual tourist scam; they’d get you inside their bus and demand ridiculous prices before dropping you off. Turns out, this wasnt the case at all. It was all free!
We booked our stay months in advanced in Morizuya Inn and it was a lot pricier than what I usually would book but this was one of our splurges. It was worth every penny. The hosts and workers are extremely kind and the service is top notch. Dinner and Breakfast is included and was an absolute hit. They also have their own private onsen to enjoy. I would highly recommend staying here if you’ve got the chance.
The town itself is also great. Its definitely an onsen town. We went to as many onsens as we could during our short stay. Our favourite would undoubtedly be Goshonoyu. The culture here was also quite a shock at first; it was my first time at a public, fully nude bath. Another shocker was how nice it was and how quick I got used to it. All it took was an open mind and and a cold night. A key note however: this is quite a popular onsen town to visit even amongst the Japanese. We stayed at Morizuya Inn, a 4 star ryokan, and our night was amazing. However, this was a special splurge for us and it cost us a pretty penny. We also had to book quite far in advance (6 months in advance in fact) as it gets booked up. I’m sure there are other better options in town especially in terms of price and scheduling. I would highly HIGHLY recommend doing your own research.
Nara
During our stay in Osaka, we had decided to go to Nara on a day trip. The trip itself was quite easy; we just had to walk to the nearest train station of our stay, and take one trip straight to Nara Station. Here we walked our way towards the park, rented electric bikes from this place and off we went on our adventure. There is a lot to see near Nara but our main attraction is the infamous Nara Park.
It was absolutely suffocating entering the park at first. We could hardly use our E-bikes and had to mostly tow it beside us by hand. Thousands of visitors flocked all over going in every direction. This sea of people worried us as there might not have been any use of our bikes after all.
Our worries were for nothing as we were able to get out of the crowd and into emptier pastures. The park is huge after all, so we were able to explore more of it on our bikes. Deer treats are sold throughout the park so we proceeded to buy some. It is quite unique and special feeding the bowing deer. I would recommend at the very least coming for a day trip to see the spectacle yourself.
Osaka
I would consider the three main cities along the “Japanese Tourist Belt” as Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka. The last is very similar but also very different to the other two. The busy, hectic environment and oceans of crowds are the same but Osaka has a certain flavor that sets it apart. If Tokyo was the business-orientated, city-dweller in the family, and Kyoto is to be the fancy, traditional, religious, temple-brother, then Osaka would be the loud, fun, vibrant, showy one in the family. Our time in Osaka was short, sweet and loud. We spent most of it visiting the sights and enjoying the nights out. Walking around the city center and especially in Dotonbori, one can feel the over-abundant energy in the air, hear the noise from miles away and smell the adventure (well, the countless food options actually fill the air)
The bathroom is an oasis for daily routines, thanks to a generous vanity, walk-in shower, combination washer and dryer, and space for supplies.
The bathroom is an oasis for daily routines, thanks to a generous vanity, walk-in shower, combination washer and dryer, and space for supplies.
The bathroom is an oasis for daily routines, thanks to a generous vanity, walk-in shower, combination washer and dryer, and space for supplies.
The bathroom is an oasis for daily routines, thanks to a generous vanity, walk-in shower, combination washer and dryer, and space for supplies.
Himeji
We took the train from up in Kinosaki Onsen all the way down to Himeji. It was a sleepy two hour train ride through the Japanese rural mountains. As I was starting to finally drift off, I was woken by the passengers in our coach simultaneously getting up to look at something outside the window. I could not see what they were looking at, at first. My view cleared when the train curved around the rails giving me a favorable angle. I see why they all got up in the first place.
Ruling the sky, above its constituents, stood the magnificent Himeji Castle. It’s palace walls and grounds made a strong base to the beautiful ivory walls that painted the castle. It stood tall and proud. It was all I could keep my eyes on.
Our main reason to visit Himeji was to see the castle and explore the royal grounds. It was also conveniently on the way to Osaka from Kinosaki Onsen. We stayed near the city center and explored during the day as it was just a walk away. I would highly recommend visiting this amazing castle if you’ve got the chance.
Travellers Pursuits 